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a week on the beat, especially on Tuesdays – Salvador (26/04/11 – 04/05/11)

Vero — Thu, 12 May 2011 00:55:36 +0000

More to come …

2011 April, 22-24. A typical day in Barra Grande, Bahia, Brazil

Vero — Tue, 03 May 2011 18:36:27 +0000

Wake up, 5:30am … Sunrise

From Barra Grande

Take the quad to see other beaches

From Barra Grande

After a day at the Tres Coqueiros beach

From Barra Grande

Walk down the beach and stop by for a juice

From Barra Grande

Keep walking and enjoy the sunset

From Barra Grande

Take your board and try surfing

From Barra Grande

And all the pictures of Barra Grande

2011 April, 5-21 – ITACARÉ a magic beach town, called home

Vero — Sat, 30 Apr 2011 16:32:52 +0000

18 days in the tiny paradise of Itacaré. Once I got to the Che Lagarto Hostel, I told them I would stay a week max. I was told that I would stay longer. I asked why. « Because it always happens »- And it happened.
Pituba is the main touristy street, where pousadas, restaurants, bars are. It is NOT the centre of the town. Actually this street has been built up for tourism purpose. Surprisingly it is quite ok to stay there, if you also go walk around in the town and discover more of the more local residential parts of the town. Also, because there are many beaches you can walk to, natives, locals and visitors meet there for surfing, training there capoeira, slacklining, play football. It has been quite reassuring to see that Itacaré unlike Morro de Sao Paulo, seems to manage tourism vs authenticity conflict – Tourism . I haven’t been to many touristy and historically poor town where tourism hasn’t too much implied the loss of charm and authenticity.

Pituba

From Itacaré

Residential area Bairo Novo (a favela)

From Itacaré

Although Essy, Shira and I have been suffering from « waves raping » (cf. Shira), Surfing was an absolut delight in all those beautiful beaches such as :

Ribeira

From Itacaré

Prainha

From Itacaré

Itacarezinho

From Itacaré

Or swimming in early morning in our swimming pool Concha beach

From Itacaré

After all these effort, eat a fresh Açai with granola, or a delicious beiju (Tapioca crepe), or an Acarajé (a fried snack with shrimps, salad and sauce), or a Mocqueca (sea food stew) – We’ll come back to traditional Bahianese food later…

From Itacaré

April 2011 – « Brazilian reality and dreams » with the Children of Itacaré – South of Bahia, Brazil

Vero — Wed, 20 Apr 2011 14:33:15 +0000

I had the chance to work on a 3 days project « Brazilian reality and dreams » with the Aurelino Leal high school, one of the 2 public ones of Itacare. (population of about 20 to 25000 people). It was a unique experience to speak with the teenagers, share views with the teachers, get a view on the living conditions of these non privileged teenagers, see how tourism can impact their lives, how the development of Itacaré as a touristic spot in Bahia can transform their perception of their own future.

These is what I wanted to show with « Brazilian reality and dreams » short videos Part 1 & 2. I just finished to edit them and showed them to the teenagers at school yesterday. They were so surprised, proud and I guess pretty impressed to see themselves on screen, on a film made by a visitor and were really excited by the idea of being seen by you all on this blog.t was definitely worthwhile to stay a little more in Itacaré and spent all this time to be with them and energy to do this project – I hope you will enjoy as much as I enjoyed doing this !

How I end up with a « Brazilian reality and dreams » small project with the high school:
That morning of April 13 2011, was the morning I was supposed to pack my bag and leave Itacaré. Like everyone who passes by Itacaré, I didn’t leave that day. At that time I had almost spent 2 weeks in a town where I was only planning to stay a week. Why? Everyone would tell you they don’t know but there is something special about this place. No WOW effect, you just feel home once you get there.

From April 2011 – Brazilian reality and dreams – Itacaré, Bahia, Brazil

Is it very touristy ? Yes, it is, however, the crowd of gringos (non local people) is suprisingly mixed with locals, I didn’t have the feeling of a cute town taken over by the aggressive tourism. Actually the number of mixed couples (often foreign women and local men) you spot there is probably a sign of successful integration.
It is still really hard to explain why Itacaré is so attractive.

So that morning, I woke up too early to get my breakfast, so I went for a walk in the centre of Itacare, where only native people live. I actually hadn’t been walking in this part of the town as I spent the first week learning surfing at the beach. My walk took me in front of Aurelino Leal high school, I innocently went in, had a chat with the Vice Director of the school Sogiane Enguer. It was « Youth Day » – No class today as it was dedicated to the teenagers’ performances on stage : Theatre play, impro, catwalks, song, dances. I gladly accepted to attend the whole day show and decided to stay few more days in order to dive a little in the everyday life of this little town of Itacaré.

From April 2011 – Brazilian reality and dreams – Itacaré, Bahia, Brazil

Dionlenom ( John Lennon) & Maiconjequisson (Mickael Jackson)

Vero — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 04:24:29 +0000

From kids and favelas

*****French ********

Une petite histoire inspiree de plein d’autres sur les enfants et les favelas :
Dionlenom, 10 ans et Maiconjequisson, 5 ans jouent au foot presque tous les jours a cote de chez eux dans la favela Morro daFormiga, dans le quartier de Tijuca de Rio. Dionlenom a cette chance de prendre des cours de voile gratuits donnes par des etudiants de l’Universite Federale de Rio, et finance par le Gouvernement. Luis et Gabi, ses parents ne connaissent rien d’autre que Rio, mais ils en savent assez pour rever d’un avenir meilleur pour leurs enfants. . Qui ne reve pas d’un avenir meilleur pour ses enfants ? Luis et Gabi ne savent ni lire ni ecrire, tant pis, si leurs prenoms sont mal orthographies, ils ont appele leur enfants comme leurs idoles John Lennon et Mickael Jackson. Ca leur portera chance.

**************English ************

A mini story inspired from many other stories heard about kids and favelas :
Dionlenom and Maiconjequisson play football almost every day in front of their house in the favela called Morro daFormiga in the neighborhood of Tijuca, in Rio de Janeiro. Dionlenom is a lucky one, he benefits from free sailing lessons given by students of the Federal University of Rio, and funded by the Government. Luis and Gabi don’t know much about the world outside Rio, but they know enough to dream about a better life for their 2 sons. They also do not read and write properly. Their names might not be spelt correctly but, no worries, sons Dionlenom & Maiconjequisson names sound like their idols John Lennon and Mickael Jackson and that should be enough. We therefore hope them the best of luck…

Voyage sur les rythmes samba pop de Seu Jorge – Decouverte et rencontre

Vero — Mon, 04 Apr 2011 00:57:33 +0000

From 26/03/2011 Concert de Seu Jorge na Rio Circo voador

Seu Jorge, un musicien, chanteur/paroliste and acteur bresilien. C’est une star au Bresil mais aussi tres connu sur la scene internationale, et tres aime en France notamment.
A force d’entendre sa voix chaude et sensuelle a la radio depuis que je suis au Bresil, cad depuis le 31 dec 2010, j’ai commence par questionne mes amis bresiliens sur lui et fais quelques recherches sur son ascension.

Son visage a fait le tour du monde grace a son role d’acteur (Manu le Coq) dans le celebre film la Cite de Dieu * en 2003 . Desormais connu sur la scene internationale Seu Jorge demontre ses talents de compositeur, chanteur et musicien ….alors qu’il a pourtant grandi dans une favela de Rio de Janeiro, côtoyant pauvreté et brutalité.

From 26/03/2011 Concert de Seu Jorge na Rio Circo voador

Il y a une semaine, 26 mars 2011, j’etais a son concert a Rio de Janeiro, au Circo Voador. Je ne parle pas encore bien le Portuguais, mais je voulais absolument savoir chanter quelques chansons a son concert. Du coup, en apprenant et traduisant les paroles de ses chansons (tres bon exercice aussi) je decouvre sa prose intelligente et souriante. Et oui, Monsieur Jorge est un poete et il est meme tres sympa de m’avoir accorde quelques minutes a l’after party de son concert pour nous saluer en video (il faisait un peu sombre malheureusement)

From 26/03/2011 Concert de Seu Jorge na Rio Circo voador

* La Cité de Dieu est un film bouleversant . Il décrit brutalite et pauvrete d’un quartier défavorisé de Rio, la cité de Dieu, des années 1960 jusqu’au milieu des années 1980.

Defiler au carnaval de Floripa au Bresil – Un moment fort !

Vero — Wed, 23 Mar 2011 18:39:31 +0000

Protegidos da princesa, c’est l’ecole de samba pour laquelle j’ai defile le 5 Mars, jour d’ouverture du Carnaval au Bresil.
Florianopolis, avec mon ami Junior, sa mere, son oncle, nous nous sommes dehanches, dans la parade chantante et dansante, composee de 7 ecoles de samba dont la notre. Nous sommes arrives 3e dans ce championnat !

L’organisation du carnaval de Floripa Il a commence a 9h et dure toute la nuit jusqu’au petit matin. Le defile dure environ 45 min a une heure par ecole.
Chacun achete son costume pour pouvoir defiler, mais il faut generalement se prendre tres tres en avance, car les places sont rares et cheres

From Carnaval Floripa

L’heure a laquelle votre ecole de samba defile est programmee, donc on se retrouve tous avant, on se regroupe en reperant ceux qui ont le meme costume que soi. Et bien, sur en profiter pour admirer le costume des autres !

From Carnaval Floripa

Tout le monde en rangee, bien aligne mais pas trop quand meme car ca danse beaucoup aussi ! Mais ouf, pas de choregraphie, il faut juste etre contente, souriant et respecter a peu pres les rangees

From Carnaval Floripa

Et la c’est la folie, le public se dechaine, les danseurs se dechainent et nous aussi, les protecteurs de la Princesse Par contre pas le droit de sortir l’appareil photo durant le defile donc voila ce que ca donne sur la camera

Une telle energie se degage de ces 80000 personnes rassemblees autour de la parade de ces 7 ecoles de samba. Il etait 4h du matin quand nous avions termine de defile, j’avais l’impression d’avoir mange du lion tellement j’ai ete transportee par l’energie du groupe et du public !

March 2011 – How to attend the Carnaval next year 2012?

Vero — Tue, 15 Mar 2011 14:51:53 +0000

From 7-9 Mars 2011 Carnaval de Rio

This year 2011, Beija Flor is the Champion School of Samba.

The Sambodromo is where the Offcial parade takes place – the one broadcast everywhere in the world, the biggest in Brazil and in the world ie, the most expensive. You can participate to the Samba parade by choosing the Samba school you want to dance with, buying Ground wings costumes, which price vary from US$ 400′s to US$ 700′s.
Links for the The 2012 Rio Carnival Guide and Program:

http://www.rio.com/rio-carnival/carnival/rio-carnival-2012

This year 2011, Carnaval started on the 5 March. After participating to the parade in Florianopolis on the 5 March, I flew straight to Rio on the 7th March in order to see the Parade in the Sambodromo. I saw it twice, from section 6 and from section 13. Tickets for these 2 sections are sold at about 50 reals at the exit of the Metro station Praça Onze, before the Parade starts (it starts at 9pm). These are tickets that are at the extreme side of the Sambodromo. You won’t have the whole long view of the parade, but you can still see a lot. These are the pictures I took from the sections 6 and 13.

Also, make sure you book your hostel much in advance or rent a flat if you are traveling with few others.

Note: What is the origin of the Carnaval ? Festival is held 46 days before Easter. By the look of the carnaval in Brazil today, who would have guessed that it took its roots in the Christianity, supposing to be a farewell to bad things in a season of religious discipline to practice repentance and prepare for Christ’s death and resurrection…
For your info, on certain days of Lent, Roman Catholics and some other Christians traditionally abstained from the consumption of meat and poultry, hence the term « carnival, » from carnelevare, « to remove (literally, « raise ») meat.

28 Fevrier-5 Mars 2011 – Pre-carnaval a Florianopolis Part 2

Vero — Sat, 05 Mar 2011 17:14:30 +0000

Le carnaval ca commence aujourd’hui. Carlos, l’oncle de Junior est implique dans le carnaval officiel de Florianopolis… J’ai ete invitee a defiler avec lui et son ecole de Samba qui s’appelle « Protegidos da Princesa » – les protecteurs de la princesse ! Et je suis tres tres honoree – Non seulement, je suis au Bresil pour le carnaval, mais en plus, je vais participer au defile officiel ! J’ai cru comprendre qu’on passe a la TV avec les 35000 autres personnes qui defilent aussi pour leur ecoles de samba. Protegidos da Princesa est representee par 4000 personnes… Ca va etre ENORME et je n’arrive pas a cacher mon excitation pour ce soir Et on vient de recevoir les costumes ! J’avoue avoir eu peur de me retrouver comme les danseuses de samba a moitie denudee qu’on voit a la TV, mais heureusement il s’agit de ca:

From Pre-carnaval Florianopolis

Hier, je me suis balladee dans Florianopolis pour sentir les vibrations de la ville pre carnaval et ca n’a fait qu’aiguiser encore plus ma curiosite ! Les chars pour le festival officiel, les scenes pour le festival de rues, la bonne humeur et ca grouillait de monde …

From Pre-carnaval Florianopolis

25 – 28 Fevrier 11 – Pre-Carnaval ! RIO Part 1

Vero — Sat, 05 Mar 2011 16:12:56 +0000

Au Bresil, l’annee commence apres le carnaval ou avec le carnaval… Cette annee le carnaval commence le 5 Mars, un peu plus tard que d’habitude (Fevrier). Il se termine officiellement le 9 Mars. Il y a le carnaval officiel, le carnaval de Rio est le plus connu mondialement, mais chaque carnaval est un evenement incroyable partout au Bresil.
Comme le foot, les bresiliens sont generalement supporter d’une ecole de Samba.
Les ecoles de samba sont en competition pendant le carnaval. Elles s’entrainent toute l’annee pour briller pendant cet evenement exceptionnel. Ce qui s’est passe a Rio il y a quelques semaines (3 grandes ecoles de samba ont subi un incendie qui a brule leur char et costume…) est catastrophique…

Aux yeux du monde entier, le Bresil est celebre pour sa culture de la fete, de la joie et la bonne humeur. Le Bresil vibre et brille aux yeux de tous surtout pendant le carnaval. Partout sur les televisions : corteges, costumes incroyables, char, percussion, musique . Et non, tout le monde n’est pas en bikini pendant le carnaval !

C’est fou comme les bresiliens attendent cet evenement avec tellement d’impatience. Deja quelques semaines avant le debut du carnaval, c’est la fiesta dans les rues ! Par exemple a Rio !

From Rio de Janeiro

(Cette jeune fille a la syndrome de Dawn – La meilleure danseuse dans ce bloco sans rire)

From Rio de Janeiro

Une diversite culturelle et des couleurs, des sourires toutes a faire la fete ensemble …

From Rio de Janeiro

Et bien sur, ces 4 jours ont ete fabuleux, Rio est genial, j’y reviendrai dans un autre post, mais d’abord quelques photos de la ville :

Apres un sejour imprevu en France , retour au Bresil

Vero — Thu, 24 Feb 2011 18:37:46 +0000

Salut tout le monde, ca y est je suis a quelques heures de prendre l’avion pour … RIO

Ca m’a fait un bien fou de revoir ceux que j’ai revu et je m’excuse aupres de ceux que je n’ai pas reussi a voir, le temps m’a manque …

Pour ceux qui auraient loupe un episode et c’est ma faute car le blog n’a pas ete mis a jour. Je suis rentree en catastrophe le 28 Janvier a Paris, pour une urgence familiale plutot triste.. Je pense a tous les autres voyageurs (ou non d’ailleurs) qui sont loin de leurs proches et qui n’ont pas les moyens de rentrer quand ils en ont vraiment besoin. En tout cas, apres 3 semaines a Paris, j’ai pris une bouffee de famille /amis et de la France (Paris, Annecy) qui me boost a fond pour reprendre le voyage que j’avais mis en pause !

J’avoue avoir aime retrouver la bonne cuisine francaise, le bon pain, fromage, charcuterie, l’ambiance parisienne, rues, sculptures, architecture, paves et meme … le metro ! Et puis le petit plaisir de se maquiller, s’habiller citadine et mettre des talons !

Je reprends l’avion ce soir pour Rio de Janeiro. Apres les 7 derniers mois de backpacking, je crois que je masteurise l’optimisation de place, deceler l’utile au superflu, choisir le leger au lourd – Bref mon sac est fin pret !

Voici quelques shoots de mon passage a Paris que je garde bien au chaud en tete pour les 6 mois a venir ….

Et bien sur un petit detour a Annecy avec mes compagnons de guerre de Londres

Janvier 2011 – 1ere tentative de samba … 1st try of Samba

Vero — Mon, 07 Feb 2011 04:54:46 +0000

Alors, c’etait super basique …. mais pour une premiere approche, il s’agissait de se relaxer, « liberer » son corps et danser selon le rythme de triolets a l’interieur de chaque temps de la mesure de samba. Les jambes bougent d’avant en arriere, tandis que les epaules legerement et pour les filles, les hanches de maniere plus prononcee. ET n’oubliez pas le popotin!

Very basic lesson for a real Samba beginner indeed. Advices were: relax and free your body, follow the 3 beats-rythm. Don’t forget to move heaps, butt and shoulders …

Demonstration dans cette video de mon cours de samba improvise chez mes amis bresiliens.
In this video, an improvised Samba lesson given by my Brazilian friends in South Brazil, Santa Catarina, Palhoca, near Florianopolis (Floripa)

Janvier 2011 – Comment fait-on la fiesta au Bresil ? How to party in Brazil?

Vero — Sun, 06 Feb 2011 05:56:40 +0000

Ah le Sud du Bresil, plus precisement dans la region de Santa Catarina, a Palhoca, a cote de Florianopolis, ou les plages sont les plus belles du pays, j’ai la chance incroyable de connaitre et de passer du temps avec cette famille bresilienne extremement sympathique. La video montre l’une des fiesta les plus chouettes depuis le debut de mon voyage et depuis 6 mois ! Comme je disais a mon ami Junior: « Pas besoin d’aller en discotheque pour s’amuser, la fiesta, c’est chez toi !! »

South of Brazil, in the region of Santa Catarina, in Palhoca, just next to Florianopolis, where the most beautiful beaches of the country are located. I have got the most amazing chance to spend time with this Brazilian family that I kind of consider mine now This video shows one of the best fiesta I have been to since the beginning of my trip 6 months ago. As I told my Brazilian friend Junior: « Real fiesta is just at your house with your family, no need to go anywhere further !! «

Les Bresiliens rayonnent. Selon moi, ils sont plus qu’a la hauteur de leur reputation. Bons vivants et toujours de bonne humeur, ils n’ont nulle besoin d’alcool (contrairement a nos amis les Anglosaxons pour s’eclater. Il faut dire que quand on est a l’aise avec son corps, capable de chanter et de sentir le tempo, on sait se rendre heureux et se contenter de peu … au moins le temps d’une soiree.

Brazilians shine. I really think they more than confirm what it’s been said about them: happy fellows and life carpe diem philosophy, they have no need of alcohol to have fun (as opposed to our Anglosaxon friends We shall admit that if you are fluent in body language, able to sing and feel the beats, it’s probably easier to naturally high up your level of happiness … at least for a night !

21 Jan 2010 – Sao Paulo, Brazil…Sertanejo, the Brazilian country music –

Vero — Wed, 26 Jan 2011 20:50:07 +0000

Not Only Samba or Forro, in Brasil you also find Sertanejo music. It comes from the countryside of Brazil in the 1920s. It is very popular in Sao Paulo, where I am now.
The origins of música sertaneja are in the sertão and música caipira. Nowadays with a more « pop » Sertanejo style, it has gained more influences from outside Brazil, particularly American country music.

I have been taken by my Brazilian Paulista friends to a bar in the area of Vila Madalena, which is a really nice area of Sao Paulo, for nightlife. There we went to a pub where live bands play this Sertaneja music. +25 year old crowd dancing on country music, in a way I have never seen country music being danced ….

Here is a demonstration of what I call in this case a Sertanejo danced with the HAIR !

1-15 Jan 2011 – South Brasil – how hitchhiking in New Zealand brings me to the 42 jewelry beaches of Santa Catarina

Vero — Mon, 17 Jan 2011 01:18:45 +0000

Why am I in Florianopolis ?

The story started in New Zealand in the last week of October 2010, I was hitchiking from Kaikoura to Picton, as no bus at that time of the day. That was 2 hours drive approx. A sign « Picton » on a big piece of paper. Easy, there is only 1 road to go to that direction and everyone says it’s very safe, tourists could give a ride easily. It was 5pm. I had 10 min to wait until a car stopped. Junior gave me a ride. Junior is from Brazil, after more than a year living and working in NZ Wellington, he is taking few weeks to travel around NZ before heading back home, in South of Brazil. After an hour of chatting in the car we realise that we both leave NZ on Sunday, both leave at 4pm, both leave with Lan Chile. We both go to Santiago de Chile, I stop there, and he stops over before another flight to Brazil. Increadible coincidence indeed. During our flight from Auckland to Santiago de Chile, I got a lot of information about South Brazil, Junior could work for the tourism agency for Florianopolis or Floripa, his home town. I promise to visit him once I am in Brazil !

No need to think twice, I arrived on the 31 December to spend New Year Eve with Jr for a Brazilian fiesta on the beach. After the best NYE I could expect during this Round the world trip, 2 weeks past, I enjoyed resting and spending time with my new Brazilian friends and family I learn some Portuguese and dived into the Brazilian culture of fiesta, happiness, generosity and hospitality.

Praias (beaches) – I stayed by Pinheira near Palhoca, beautiful beaches, especially La Guarda do Embau, Praia da Pinheira, Garopaba,where we stayed the most.

Bikini – tiny tiny tiny – I got used to seeing those beautiful bodies after a week.

Food – Ex Chef Carlos (uncle) cooks wonderfully and I have been invited for some increadible food tasted at his table – Fruit and vegetables in Pinheira are revoltingly cheap and big and juicy and beautiful…

Junior was an amazing host, and took me everywhere, around the island, and even helped me getting my yellow fever vaccination done (for Amazonia soon …) – (Thanks sooooo much my friend !)